Fibers & Yarns

Novelty yarn

Bouclé, slub, chenille and ribbon

Lock the brake firstNever cut a tensioned warpMask up for dusty fibreVentilate the dye areaTie back hair · check heddles · ventilate
Novelty yarn — workshop line drawing

Specifications

CountHighly irregular
StructureBouclé, slub, chenille, ribbon, tape
ElasticityVaries widely
Sett (plain weave)6 – 12 EPI
ShrinkageTest it — often 5 – 15 %
Dye affinityDepends on fibre content

Technical parameters

Warp suitabilityPoor — use as weft
StrengthLow to moderate
HandlingBulky, grippy or slippery
Best weavesPlain weave, as a feature weft
CareRead the yarn label
2Weave2 – 20 Nm

Overview

Novelty yarns are engineered for texture rather than for strength: loops, thick-and-thin slubs, cut chenille and flat ribbon. They add surface interest quickly, but most of them cannot be used as a warp and most of them will not take a tight beat.

Typical figure for this stage: 40 – 70 ppi. Open the shed, pass the weft, beat it home. Rhythm and consistent beat make an even cloth.

Safety notes

Chenille and bouclé shed short fibre heavily: ventilate, wear a mask and clean the loom after. Some novelty yarns contain metallic or plastic elements that melt — keep them away from irons and dye pots. Fluffy yarns catch on rough hands and on the beater; keep your reed smooth.

Using it well

  • Sample every novelty yarn before you commit: some felt, some pill, some shed everywhere.
  • Use a smooth, strong yarn for the warp and let the novelty yarn be the weft.
  • A little goes a long way — one or two picks of chenille can carry a whole cloth.
  • Wind bobbins loosely or the texture will crush under tension.

Practise it in 3D

Run this stage as an interactive simulation, with the same figures this page quotes.

Open the simulator