Fibers & Yarns

Cotton yarn

Strong, inelastic and predictable

Lock the brake firstNever cut a tensioned warpMask up for dusty fibreVentilate the dye areaTie back hair · check heddles · ventilate
Cotton yarn — workshop line drawing

Specifications

Count4 – 20 Nm
Staple length2 – 3 cm
ElasticityLow — 5 – 8 % at break
Sett (plain weave)12 – 16 EPI
Shrinkage5 – 10 %
Dye affinityGood, needs a mordant for natural dyes

Technical parameters

Fiber diameter12 – 20 µm
Strength (dry / wet)High / higher
HandlingSmooth, cool, firm
Best weavesPlain, rib, huck, lace
CareMachine wash warm, tumble low
1Warp2 – 20 Nm

Overview

Cotton has almost no stretch, which makes it wonderfully predictable and unforgiving in equal measure: an uneven beat shows. It is strong when wet, takes dye in clear bright shades, and gives a firm, cool cloth — the fibre behind tea towels, table linen and most beginner samplers.

Typical figure for this stage: 8 – 20 N tension. Measure, wind, thread and tension the warp. Most weaving problems are warp problems.

Safety notes

Cotton dust is a respiratory irritant, especially when you are winding or tearing. Work in a ventilated space and wear a dust mask if you are handling large quantities. Cotton lint is highly flammable — keep it away from heaters and dye pots. Wet cotton is heavy: lift full warps with care.

Using it well

  • Because cotton does not stretch, tension it firmly and keep it firm — a slack cotton warp will not recover.
  • Mercerised cotton has a sheen and takes dye more evenly than unmercerised.
  • Cotton is the right choice for anything that will be washed hard.
  • Slub and unmercerised cottons add texture without changing the sett much.

Practise it in 3D

Run this stage as an interactive simulation, with the same figures this page quotes.

Open the simulator