Fibers & Yarns

Silk yarn

Strong, lustrous and expensive

Lock the brake firstNever cut a tensioned warpMask up for dusty fibreVentilate the dye areaTie back hair · check heddles · ventilate
Silk yarn — workshop line drawing

Specifications

Count20 – 60 Nm (fine)
Filament lengthContinuous (up to 900 m)
ElasticityModerate — 15 – 20 % at break
Sett (plain weave)20 – 30 EPI
Shrinkage3 – 6 %
Dye affinityExcellent

Technical parameters

Fiber diameter10 – 14 µm
Strength (dry / wet)Very high / slightly lower
HandlingSmooth, slippery, cool
Best weavesSatin, plain, crepe
CareHand wash cool or dry clean
1Warp2 – 20 Nm

Overview

Silk is the strongest natural fibre for its weight, with a triangular cross-section that throws light back as sheen. It has good elasticity, takes brilliant dye, and drapes beautifully. It is also the most expensive yarn most weavers will ever put on a loom.

Typical figure for this stage: 8 – 20 N tension. Measure, wind, thread and tension the warp. Most weaving problems are warp problems.

Safety notes

Silk is slippery and fine, so keep it away from moving machinery where it can be drawn in. Some silk is degummed with alkaline baths; rinse well if you are handling it wet for long periods. Sericin dust affects sensitive skin — wear gloves if you react.

Using it well

  • Silk is slippery: use a tighter sett and a smoother reed than the count alone suggests.
  • Fine silk needs fine heddles — a rough wire heddle will abrade the filament.
  • Silk takes natural dye brilliantly; cochineal on silk gives a red that nothing else matches.
  • Save offcuts. At silk prices you will want them.

Practise it in 3D

Run this stage as an interactive simulation, with the same figures this page quotes.

Open the simulator